The 2004 Vin Santo del Chianti Classico Occhio di Pernice emerges from the glass with an intriguing array of smoke, licorice, honey, scorched earth and tar, all of which add considerable complexity to the fruit. This is an exotic, full-throttle style of Vin Santo, but there is more than enough freshness to balance some of the wines more opulent leanings. From time to time the volatile acidity (always present in sweet wines) sticks out a bit, which is the only thing that keeps the score from going higher. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024.92 points from Robert Parker, The Wine AdvocateWhile most hosts are inclined to reserve this traditional dessert wine, which is made fromSangiovese berries that are dried in a vinsantaia before being pressed and fermented, thismagnificently viscous Vin Santo enticingly combines sufficient savory elements with thesweet to take its place beside the entre at the dinner table. The wines honeycomb, toffee, andFig Newton flavors, balanced by quince and clove, shine when paired with Moroccan-spiced pork tenderloin garnished with dried-apricot couscous.
